Why Saint Agur’s blue cheese stands out from the rest
Rich, smooth and deliciously authentic, Saint Agur is a blue cheese with a difference. Here, chef Raymond Blanc shows us the proof is in the tasting – blind tasting that is!
Contrary to what some may think, not all blues are created equal. Indeed, for more than 30 years, Saint Agur has gone above and beyond to ensure its blue cheese tastes unlike any other. It prides itself on being one of the most unique varieties on the market – something two Michelin star chef Raymond Blanc recently set out to prove when he met up with a true cheese specialist, Sam Wilkin, and performed a rather delicious blind tasting...
Saint Agur boasts a punchy, tangy taste that’s softened by a luxurious creaminess – it’s a winning formula that has seen it become the UK’s favourite blue cheese brand. Made in central France’s Auvergne region, an area renowned for its blue cheese, Saint Agur is the work of passionate craftsmen who use only the finest milk and production methods. The result is a flavoursome blue that’s simply one of a kind. To prove just how unique this delectable cheese is, Raymond put cheesemonger Sam’s taste buds to the test by having him sample four different blue varieties. But could he guess Saint Agur from the rest?
A taste of the action
First up on Sam’s cheeseboard was a slightly bitter, but smooth and tasty big brand creamy blue. “It’s somewhere between a Danish blue and a camembert,” says Sam. “It’s got that real creamy texture but a nice bitter note to give it a bit of structure.” It’s a verdict Raymond wholeheartedly agrees with, adding: “Yes, it’s creamy, buttery and not strong. It’s quite mild, but it’s pleasant.”
When it’s time to taste the second cheese, it doesn’t take Sam long to work out exactly what he’s eating. “It’s very smooth and breaks down really silkily. It’s got a lot more fruitiness about it.” And when Raymond asks Sam exactly what it is he’s eating, he’s quick to unmask it as a gorgonzola.
Next up, it’s stilton, and its buttery yellow complexion prompts the cheese enthusiast to correctly call out the cheese before even taking a bite. “This is undoubtedly stilton,” he enthuses. “It’s got a good, even bluing, but it’s much more savoury than the last cheese.”
When he’s handed his fourth cheese, Saint Agur, Sam is quickly taken aback by the vibrancy of its mould. “I think what’s really interesting about this, immediately, is the difference in colour. The blue, it’s got that aquamarine, sage colour to it.” Upon tasting it, he says: “It has such a classic, creamy texture that just breaks down in your mouth. But what I really like about it, is that it’s not just one note. It’s really layered.”
The Saint Agur difference
Every step of Saint Agur’s creation is a true labour of love, right down to the milk used to make the cheese. Every drop comes from the local Haute Loire Dairy’s Montbéliarde cows and every wheel is salted by hand during production.
During the first few weeks of the maturation process, the cheese is repeatedly pierced with needles to allow oxygen to flow and to trigger the development of its signature blue veins. It’s then ripened in a controlled environment for 10 weeks to develop its pleasantly sharp taste and perfectly soft, creamy consistency.
Proud of its Auvergne roots, a region renowned for its contrasting seasons and verdant volcanic hills that are rich with basalt stone, Saint Agur draws inspiration from its landscape. To honour its home and origins, every wheel is formed in the same hexagonal shape as the volcanic stone.